Skincare for Acne-Prone Skin

Acne is not a hygiene issue — it is a condition driven by a combination of excess sebum, follicular hyperkeratinisation (pores clogging with dead skin), and the proliferation of C. acnes bacteria. Effective acne-prone skin routines target all three: regulating sebum with niacinamide and zinc, exfoliating pores with salicylic acid, and reducing inflammation with azelaic acid and centella. The goal is to clear existing breakouts while preventing new ones without compromising the barrier.

What to look for

• Salicylic acid (BHA) — oil-soluble, penetrates and exfoliates within the pore
• Niacinamide — regulates sebum, reduces inflammation, fades post-blemish marks
• Azelaic acid — anti-bacterial, reduces redness, fades pigmentation
• Zinc — anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating mineral
• Non-comedogenic moisturisers — acne-prone skin still needs hydration

What to avoid

• Picking and squeezing — pushes bacteria deeper and causes scarring
• Over-cleansing — strips the barrier, triggering rebound sebum production
• Heavy, occlusive oils — coconut oil, mineral oil can clog acne-prone pores
• Using too many actives at once — causes barrier breakdown and worsens inflammation

Frequently Asked Questions

Does diet cause acne?

Evidence suggests it can contribute. High-glycaemic foods (sugar, refined carbohydrates) and, in some individuals, dairy — particularly skimmed milk — have been linked to increased acne severity. This is thought to be mediated through insulin and IGF-1 pathways that increase sebum production and follicular activity. Reducing refined sugars and processed foods is a reasonable dietary intervention, though it works best alongside targeted skincare.

How do I tell the difference between purging and a breakout from a new product?

Purging occurs when a new active — typically a retinoid or chemical exfoliant — accelerates cell turnover and brings pre-existing congestion to the surface faster than normal. It typically appears in your usual breakout areas, clears within 4–6 weeks, and does not leave new marks in unusual locations. A reaction to a product causes breakouts in new areas, doesn't follow your normal pattern, and may include redness, stinging, or cysts. If new blemishes appear in unfamiliar areas or don't improve after 6 weeks, discontinue the product.

Should I moisturise if I have acne-prone skin?

Yes — without exception. Dehydrated skin overproduces sebum to compensate, which worsens acne. The key is choosing the right moisturiser: lightweight, oil-free, non-comedogenic formulas such as gel-creams or water-gel moisturisers. Niacinamide-containing moisturisers are particularly useful as they hydrate and regulate sebum simultaneously.

Shop for this concern

Browse the professional products we recommend for this concern, or read more in our skincare guides. Free UK delivery over £50.