Dermaplaning Aftercare: How to Care for Your Skin and Maximise Your Results

Dermaplaning is one of the most satisfying treatments in a skilled clinician's toolkit. A sterile surgical blade glides at a precise angle across the skin, removing the top layer of dead cells along with vellus hair — the fine, colourless down that traps product and dulls the complexion. The result is immediate: skin that looks polished, feels impossibly smooth, and absorbs serums and moisturisers far more efficiently than it did before.

What most clients don't realise is that the treatment itself is only half the equation. The 48 to 72 hours that follow will determine how long those results last and how well your skin recovers. Get the aftercare right and your glow can last three to four weeks. Get it wrong and you risk sensitivity, breakouts, or uneven texture. This guide explains exactly what to do — and what to avoid.

Why Your Skin Is More Vulnerable Immediately After Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning is a form of physical exfoliation, and a thorough one at that. Your clinician has removed the stratum corneum — the outermost layer of dead keratinocytes that ordinarily acts as your skin's first line of defence. For the next 24 to 48 hours, your skin is more permeable, more reactive, and significantly more sensitive to UV radiation and environmental irritants.

This increased permeability is actually a benefit when it comes to skincare absorption: active ingredients penetrate more efficiently than usual, which is why post-dermaplaning is an excellent time to apply targeted serums. But it's equally a risk if you introduce the wrong products or expose your skin to direct sunlight without protection. Think of the days after your treatment as an opportunity to nourish, not to challenge.

The First 24 Hours: Protect and Soothe

In the immediate window after your treatment, your priority is to reduce any residual warmth or mild redness and to avoid anything that could compromise the skin barrier you're in the process of rebuilding.

Avoid these in the first 24 hours:

• Retinoids and vitamin A derivatives in any concentration
• AHAs, BHAs, or enzymatic exfoliants — your skin has already been exfoliated
• Strong vitamin C serums (L-ascorbic acid at high percentages), which can sting on freshly treated skin
• Heavy gym sessions, saunas, steam rooms, and swimming pools
• Touching your face unnecessarily — bacteria transfer is a real concern on freshly treated skin

Do use:

• A gentle, fragrance-free cleanser
• A calming, hydrating serum — hyaluronic acid or ceramide-based formulas are ideal
• A broad-spectrum SPF 50 — this is non-negotiable. Freshly dermaplaned skin has no tolerance for UV exposure and pigmentation can develop quickly without adequate protection

At NexaSkinMed, we've curated a range of professional post-treatment products designed specifically for the skin's recovery phase — lightweight, clinically formulated, and free from the irritants that can set back your results.

Days Two to Seven: Rebuild and Nourish

Once the initial sensitivity has settled — usually by the end of the second day — you can begin to reintroduce more active ingredients, starting gently.

Hydration remains the focus for the first week. Ceramides are particularly valuable here: they are the building blocks of your skin's lipid barrier and support the recovery of a healthy stratum corneum. Products that combine ceramides with niacinamide (vitamin B3) are especially well suited to post-treatment skin — niacinamide helps regulate sebum, reduce redness, and support barrier function simultaneously.

If you normally use a retinoid, you can typically reintroduce it on day five to seven, depending on your skin's response. Start at a lower frequency than usual — every other night rather than nightly — and monitor carefully. The same applies to AHAs. There is no benefit in rushing back to exfoliation when dermaplaning has already achieved a thorough one.

Continue applying SPF 50 every morning throughout the entire recovery period, even on overcast days. UV damage is cumulative, and post-treatment skin is particularly susceptible to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation if exposed without protection.

What About Vellus Hair? The Regrowth Question Answered

The question most clients have after their first dermaplaning session is about regrowth. Will the fine hair grow back coarser or darker? The short answer is no — and there is solid dermatological science to back this up.

Vellus hair is not the same as terminal hair (the type that grows on your scalp or legs). Its texture, colour, and growth pattern are determined by the follicle, not the cutting point. Blunting the tip of a vellus hair with a blade does not stimulate the follicle or alter its hormonal programming. The hair will grow back at the same rate and with the same characteristics as before — typically within two to four weeks.

When to Book Your Next Treatment

Most clinicians recommend dermaplaning every four weeks, aligning with the skin's natural cell renewal cycle. Booking more frequently can interfere with that cycle and may cause cumulative sensitivity over time.

Between appointments, your focus should be on maintaining barrier health and keeping the skin well hydrated. A consistent routine featuring SPF, antioxidants, and targeted actives will extend the results of each treatment and improve your skin's overall condition over successive sessions.

If you're considering adding dermaplaning to your regular skincare routine or have questions about whether it's suitable for your skin type, book a consultation with one of our clinicians. We assess your skin thoroughly before any treatment and tailor aftercare recommendations to your specific concerns — because results are always better when the aftercare is as carefully considered as the treatment itself.